At the end of December, we packed up the family and headed to Emilia-Romagna, hoping to catch the last sparkle of Christmas lights while soaking in one of Italy’s most beloved food regions. With Modena as our base and an agriturismo in Carpi, just 15 minutes away, we found the perfect balance between city charm and countryside calm.
Day 1: First Taste of Modena & Christmas Atmosphere
We arrived around lunchtime and made our first stop in Modena, easing into the city with no big plans — just walking, eating, and observing. The goal of the day was simple: get to know the city and, most importantly, its food.
For lunch, we chose Ristorante da Enzo, a classic spot with a welcoming, local feel — the kind of place where food is taken very seriously and portions are anything but modest.
We started with gnocco fritto and tigelle, served with a generous selection of salumi and local cheeses. Gnocco fritto — lightly fried dough pillows — is a staple of this area and absolutely irresistible when paired with prosciutto, mortadella, and soft cheeses. Tigelle, small round breads cooked in special molds, are another local favorite and perfect for sharing.
For mains, we dove straight into Emilia-Romagna classics:
- Tortellini in brodo — delicate handmade pasta filled with meat, served in a rich, clear broth
- Lasagna, layered, comforting, and deeply flavorful
Everything was accompanied by Lambrusco, the famous sparkling red wine of the region.
A Quick Note on Emilia-Romagna Cuisine & Lambrusco
This region is often called Italy’s food capital, and for good reason. Emilia-Romagna is the birthplace of tortellini, lasagna, mortadella, Parmigiano Reggiano, and traditional balsamic vinegar. The food is rich, comforting, and rooted in tradition.
Lambrusco is often misunderstood outside Italy. Here, it’s lightly sparkling, fresh, sometimes dry, sometimes fruity, and designed to be drunk with food — especially rich dishes. When enjoyed locally, it makes perfect sense.
After lunch, we walked around the historic center, admiring the Duomo di Modena, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its striking Romanesque architecture. We also stopped at the Mercato Storico Albinelli, one of the city’s true gems.
Mercato Storico Albinelli
This covered market is lively, authentic, and full of character. Inside, you’ll find butchers, cheesemongers, fish counters, bakeries, and small food stalls — many run by the same families for generations. It’s the kind of place where locals do their daily shopping, and visitors get a real glimpse into everyday Modenese life.
After the walk, we headed to our agriturismo in Carpi to check in and rest. The peaceful countryside setting was exactly what we needed.
In the evening, we returned to Modena to enjoy the Christmas lights, decorations, and holiday markets. The city felt festive yet relaxed, perfect for families. Day one was all about orientation — easing into the rhythm of the region and letting food lead the way.
Day 2: Countryside Mornings, Supercars & Small-Town Magic
We woke up slowly the next morning to complete silence — one of the joys of staying in the countryside. Breakfast at the agriturismo was made entirely of local, homemade products, from fresh bread and cakes to jams and dairy.
After breakfast, we took a short walk nearby. The vast flat fields of this part of Italy are striking in their simplicity. The landscape stretches endlessly, broken only by the occasional casale (traditional farmhouse). It’s calm, grounding, and very different from the hillier regions people often associate with Italy.
After the walk, we drove to the Lamborghini Museum.
Lamborghini Museum
Located near the factory in Sant’Agata Bolognese, the museum tells the story of Ferruccio Lamborghini, who famously began by making tractors before deciding to challenge Ferrari and build luxury sports cars. The exhibition showcases classic and modern models, along with some insight into design and engineering.
The museum itself is quite small and takes about 30 minutes to see. For us, it wasn’t great value for money. You can also book a factory tour, but that wasn’t practical for our family trip.
Important note: Dogs are not allowed in the Lamborghini Museum. Next time, we’d choose the Maserati Museum, which appears to be more pet-friendly and offers a larger exhibition.
Afterward, we stopped in a nearby town for lunch — and it turned out to be one of the best meals of the trip.
This beautiful, rustic trattoria completely won us over. The atmosphere was warm and authentic, and the food and wine were outstanding — classic dishes done exceptionally well. One of those places you stumble upon and immediately want to return to.
After lunch, we headed back to the agriturismo for a rest before heading out again in the late afternoon.
Evening in Carpi
In the late afternoon, we went into Carpi, a charming town with a lively, welcoming feel.
Known for its beautiful medieval architecture and rich history, this quaint town offers a relaxing stop for those looking to explore beyond the usual tourist spots. The highlight spots to visit are: the stunning Piazza dei Martiri, surrounded by Renaissance buildings, and the impressive Castello dei Pio, a fortress that tells the story of the town’s past.
During the Christmas season, the town is beautifully lit, with lovely shops and a vibrant atmosphere.
The kids were especially enchanted by a carousel (giostra), and of course, no Italian winter evening is complete without zucchero filato (cotton candy).
For dinner, we kept things simple — stopping at a supermarket to stock up on mortadella, cheese, fresh bread, and a bottle of wine, which we enjoyed back at the agriturismo. Simple, local, and perfect.
Day 3: Castelvetro di Modena & Heading Home
On our final day, we headed to Castelvetro di Modena, a picturesque hill town surrounded by vineyards. With its medieval center, stone buildings, and views over the countryside, it’s undoubtedly beautiful.
That said, visiting at the end of December meant the town felt very quiet, with many restaurants closed. While lovely for a short walk, it wasn’t ideal for lunch.
We continued on to Crespellano in search of food, but unfortunately, the restaurant we chose didn’t impress. The cooking style felt noticeably different — as we were closer to Bologna — and even the brodo tasted saltier and heavier. It wasn’t bad, but compared to what we’d eaten around Modena, it didn’t stand out, so we wouldn’t recommend it.
After lunch, it was time to head home.
Where We Stayed: Agriturismo in Carpi
Our agriturismo La Corte Gialla was one of the highlights of the trip — super tranquil, cozy, and family-friendly. The kids loved the horses, mini piglets, and chickens, while we appreciated the peaceful setting and warm hospitality.
The location was ideal for exploring Modena and the surrounding towns, and we highly recommend stopping by Cantina Santa Croce nearby to stock up on excellent local Lambrusco to take home.
A Must-Do in Modena: Visit an Acetaia
One experience we highly recommend is stopping at a local acetaia to learn about and sample Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena. This is not the balsamic vinegar most people know from supermarkets — the traditional version is aged for at least 12 years (often much longer) in a series of wooden barrels, resulting in a thick, complex, and beautifully balanced condiment.
Visiting an acetaia offers insight into a centuries-old family tradition, and tastings usually include different ages of balsamic, allowing you to truly appreciate how time transforms it. It’s an educational, delicious stop and works well even with kids, as visits are short and engaging. Plus, it’s the perfect edible souvenir to bring home.
Final Thoughts
This short winter trip to Modena and Emilia-Romagna was the perfect mix of food, culture, countryside, and festive charm. Visiting just after Christmas allowed us to enjoy the lights and atmosphere without the crowds, making it especially enjoyable for a family trip.
If you love Italian food, slower travel, and authentic experiences, Modena — even for just a few days — delivers in the most delicious way.
For more travel tips and family-friendly itineraries, be sure to check out the rest of our blog, and don’t forget to follow us on social media to stay updated on the latest adventures in Emilia-Romagna and beyond!